15 Things I Wish Someone Had Told Me Before My First Ladakh Trip

I have now been to Ladakh twice. Between the two trips, I compiled everything I got wrong or wished I'd known the first time. Here are fifteen of them.

1. The altitude is not a metaphor

Every guide says "acclimatize carefully." What they don't say is that the altitude will affect you physically regardless of how fit you are. I am an active cyclist. I still had a headache and fatigue for 36 hours after landing. Being fit helps but does not exempt you from altitude physiology.

2. Day 1 is not negotiable

Rest on the first day. Fully rest. Not "rest a bit and then see the palace." The people who get altitude sickness badly in Ladakh are almost always the ones who pushed activities on day 1.

3. Your phone camera will be fine

I brought a DSLR with three lenses. I used it about 30% of the time. My phone (a mid-range Android) took the other 70%. At the altitudes and light levels in Ladakh, a modern phone camera is genuinely excellent. If you're buying camera equipment specifically for this trip, reconsider.

4. The drives are very long

Leh to Pangong is 160km but takes 5–6 hours. Leh to Tso Moriri is 240km and takes 7–8 hours. You will spend more time in the car than your itinerary makes it look. This is actually fine — the drives are extraordinary — but plan for it, not against it.

5. Carry more cash than you think

Outside Leh city, UPI and cards don't work. Carry a minimum of ₹15,000 in cash when leaving Leh for any multi-day excursion. Including driver tips, Pangong camp stays, entry fees, and the occasional unplanned snack purchase at a roadside dhaba.

6. The cold at altitude is not like city cold

5°C in Leh at night feels significantly colder than 5°C in Delhi. The dry air, the wind, and the altitude all amplify the cold. A down jacket, thermal base layer, and wool socks are mandatory even in July.

7. Sunscreen is more important than your jacket

UV radiation at 3,500m–5,000m is significantly more intense than at sea level. I forgot sunscreen on day 3 and had visible sunburn on my forearms by evening despite wearing a t-shirt for only a few hours. SPF 50+ every day, reapplied after every few hours outside.

8. Book a good driver, not just any driver

The difference between a good Ladakhi driver and an indifferent one is not just safety — it's the trip. A knowledgeable driver will stop for the eagle on the rock, know the monk at Diskit Monastery personally, pull over at the viewpoint you haven't seen on any blog. Ask your operator for a driver who speaks some English and knows the region well.

9. There is no mobile signal at Pangong

None. Zero. Tell your family before you leave Leh for Pangong that you'll be unreachable for 24–48 hours. The lack of signal is one of the best parts of the Pangong experience, but not if worried relatives are trying to reach you.

10. The food is simple and often excellent

Don't expect elaborate meals outside Leh city. Do expect fresh, simple food at most camps and guesthouses that is significantly better than it looks — particularly the thukpa, the dal, and the fresh bread. Ladakhi hospitality is genuine and the food reflects it.

11. September is better than July

I went in July the first time, September the second. September is objectively better: fewer people, cleaner air, lower prices, and the light is extraordinary. The only reason to choose July is the Hemis Festival (usually held in July) and it's a good reason — but September still beats it on overall experience.

12. You will want to return before you've left

Every Ladakh traveller I've spoken to reports the same thing: by day 5 or 6, you're already planning the next visit. Budget for this psychologically. Zanskar, Hanle, Turtuk, the Chadar trek — there is always a next Ladakh trip once you've done the first one.

13. The ILP process is easier than it looks

Inner Line Permits sound bureaucratic and they were historically difficult. Now the online process is fast and our operators sort it end-to-end. Don't let permit logistics put you off visiting restricted areas — they're the best parts.

14. Stay at least one night outside Leh

Day-trippers to Pangong see the lake but don't experience it. The Pangong morning is a sunrise, a star-filled night, a silence that rewires something — none of these are available on a same-day return trip. Budget for at least one overnight at Pangong, Nubra, or Tso Moriri.

15. Let the itinerary be flexible

Mountains have their own schedule. A road may close, a weather window may open, a monk may invite you for tea, your driver may suggest a detour to a village festival that was not in the plan. The best Ladakh trips I know about had space for the unplanned. Leave some in yours.