My colleague and I had a combined Ladakh budget of ₹40,000 for both of us — ₹20,000 each, flights excluded. We did it. Just about. Here is the honest breakdown of what we did and what we sacrificed.
The Numbers First
| Category | Both of us (₹) | Per person (₹) |
|---|---|---|
| Flights (Delhi–Leh–Delhi, booked 8 weeks early) | 17,200 | 8,600 |
| Accommodation (8 nights, mix of guesthouses) | 8,400 | 4,200 |
| Car hire (shared SUV, 6 days with driver) | 10,800 | 5,400 |
| ILP permits | 600 | 300 |
| Food (all meals, 9 days) | 4,800 | 2,400 |
| Entry fees, tips, sundries | 2,200 | 1,100 |
| Total in-Ladakh spend | 26,800 | 13,400 |
| Total including flights | 44,000 | 22,000 |
We slightly overran the ₹20,000 each figure once flights were added. In-destination we were at ₹13,400 each — well within the target.
How We Kept Accommodation Cheap
We stayed in shared guesthouses (two beds per room, shared bathroom) in Leh's Changspa area for ₹600–₹800 per room per night. For the Pangong overnight, we stayed in a basic camp rather than the premium lake-facing tents — ₹700 per person with dinner and breakfast included. Not glamorous but perfectly clean and warm.
The key: we booked directly with the guesthouse, not through OTAs. Walking in and asking face-to-face in September (shoulder season) consistently got us a 10–20% discount.
How We Kept Food Cheap
We ate breakfast at the guesthouse (included), lunch at roadside dhabas and small local restaurants (₹100–₹150 per person), and dinner at slightly better restaurants in Leh's Fort Road for ₹200–₹300 each. We avoided the tourist-facing rooftop restaurants that charge ₹400–₹600 for the same thukpa you can get for ₹120 at the dhaba next door.
One meal we genuinely don't regret splurging on: dinner at a Tibetan family-run restaurant near the main market. ₹350 for four dishes and tea. We ate there three times.
What We Skipped
Honestly? Nothing that mattered to us. We skipped: camel rides at Nubra (₹600 per person — saved ₹1,200), organised rafting on the Zanskar (₹2,000 per person — saved ₹4,000), and a helicopter sightseeing ride that some people in our guesthouse were considering (₹6,000 per person). We watched the Hunder sand dunes at sunset for free and were more satisfied than any of the paid activity people appeared to be.
The One Thing Worth Paying For
A good local driver with knowledge of the roads and genuinely useful commentary about the monasteries, passes, and villages. We paid ₹5,400 between us for a 6-day car with Tashi, who grew up in Nubra and knew every village on the north side of Khardung La personally. Worth every rupee.
Would We Do It Differently?
If we had ₹5,000 more to spend, we would have: (1) upgraded the Pangong accommodation to a better lakeside camp, and (2) added Tso Moriri to the itinerary with an overnight stay. The ₹20,000 budget is achievable but it means you feel the constraints occasionally. With ₹25,000–₹28,000, Ladakh becomes significantly more comfortable without becoming expensive.
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